By Samuel Strait – May 17, 2023 When I stepped off the plane from Nuie,…
By Samuel Strait – May 17, 2023 When I stepped off the plane from Nuie, I could tell that fall weather had come to New Zealand. A bit over a week to see some of North Island before returning home. The first night was spent barely thirty miles south of Auckland at Pokeno, yet Auckland sprawl had already visited this small rural community. The hillsides to the west were a sea of new development trying to escape the high cost of housing in the metropolitan area around Auckland. Too late for dinner, so the deli at Countdown, New Zealand's version of Safeway, where food prices were relatively similar to California's. Stayed in a rather plush room with kitchen and three beds for the one of me, all for less than $100 US. Accommodations in New Zealand were a bit of a surprise as they tended to be very well appointed and less than the equivalent in the US by a third. Up early the next morning for a sprint to Napier on New Zealand's East Coast where early European settlers began their occupation of the island. First a stop at Rotorua where New Zealand's second largest lake is and a grove of Coastal Redwoods.. A 1200 foot aerial walkway was suspended through the grove about thirty feet in the air. While the trees themselves were fairly small by comparison, it gave a pretty good idea of how fast redwood trees can cover an area after only seventy five years. Next stop Craters of the Moon near Taupo alongside New Zealand's largest lake. Much of this part of New Zealand is subject to thermal eruptions and mild volcanic activity. Craters of the Moon has a series of pools where you can subject yourself to outdoor warm mud baths. I was told by several participants in the baths that it was quite relaxing. As it was getting towards noon and Napier was still over the mountains, it was time to move on. Leaving New Zealand's main Highway, Highway One, I split off towards the Coast on Highway Five where reaching the summit of the range of mountains on the way to the coast, the blue Pacific spread out before me. Hawke's Bay and Napier were wiped out by volcanic eruptions several times, yet still manages the picturesque scene of 1930's tranquility on its main street. I managed to stumble on New Zealand's National Aquarium here and was captivated by their penguin enclosure. Hungry little buggers. On down the Maritime Drive to spend the night at a beach front hotel with a view of the ocean. Up early for another day south to wine country, a lot like the Napa Valley. As I drove south there was almost constant stopping for road construction on Highway Two and thought it must be the construction season in New Zealand only to find out later that the Kiwi's work on their roads constantly. A stop at Carterton to try and find New Zealand's version of Stonehenge proved to be a challenge, but managed to stumble across the road to it after I had given up and was prepared to give it a pass. Not a faithful reproduction, but a full scale working model of what Stonehenge was meant to be after being built. I guess the astronomer in me bubbled up and I spent a fascinating couple of hours touring the site. On to Greytown, a delightful small town that has resurrected its older buildings into a magnet for day travelers from New Zealand's capital, Wellington. Plenty to tantalize while taking in High Street. Up over another winding mountain road the next morning before a day and night in Wellington. I happened to be just in time for the weekly street market, and another valiant try at a plate of "Bangers and Mash", sometimes I think its the National Dish. The mash was fine, mashed potatoes, but the bangers must be an acquired taste. A bed in an old updated inn, the next morning the Cobblestone Museum, the harbor, and the local Tram Museum before I am off for Southland, New Zealand's largest collection of old cars, left hand drive of course. The facility did not disappoint. A car lover's paradise. Three floors of cars, a couple of planes, motorcycles, bicycles, and Mickey Cohen's shot up Cadillac. Last electric tram 1964 North and West out to New Zealand's West coast, where the Surfing is fine along the "Surf Highway". Whanganui for the night and a local bakery for dinner. Into town the next morning for a look at a local steamer that had sunk in the river one hundred and twenty five years in the past, then up the quaint ten blocks of Victoria Street to rejoin the "Surf Highway". The "Surf Highway" spends way too much time traveling through dairy farms for my taste, so after dozens of short detours to the beach, I ended up at Opunake for the day. Checked into the venerable Club Hotel, 1885 vintage, for the princely sum of $47 US, restaurant and lounge included. Must have been a week night as everything was quiet after 9:00 pm. I was left with the key to the front door and pointed up the street where it appeared the sidewalks had been rolled up for the night. So much for a rousing Saturday night in New Zealand. Around Mt. Taranaki in the morning to New Plymouth, black sand beaches along the way, then down to Stratford where Shakespeare has a following. Enroute between New Plymouth and Stratford is a town called Inglewood. Not much there except on Sunday's once a month where cars from far and wide line up in the local park in rows with their boot lid open. Your car's trunk for those that don't know, and the selling of your cast offs begins. Its quite the party. A visit to the ever popular Restoration Village, a collection of houses and stores from around the area with its very own miniature train to ride. From Stratford to Taumarunui is one hundred and fifty five miles of winding road through kilometers of chasms, narrow one land bridges, a unique tunnel, also one lane, and the Republic of Whangamomona since 1974. At the hotel in Whangamomona you can get your passport stamped and purchase a shirt that proclaims you have driven the Highway that the World forgot. Except for the bridges and the tunnel, it reminds me a lot of how Highway 199 used to be when I traveled on it in 1954. Spectacular four hour drive for a ninety five mile trip. I ended up in Te Kiti for the night, close to the Waitomo Caves. A stroll down main street with an eye on the local bakery for breakfast then a meal in the old train station. Early to bed then up to stop at the Caves before heading back to Pokeno for the last night in New Zealand. A thirty mile three hour adventure on the road to Auckland's airport and I am on an eleven hour flight to LA, then home. Great trip.